> I would like to rechrome(sp?) parts of the front grill.

I looked at the "chrome" for about 2 seconds while considering whether to
mask it and then said "nah" and spray-painted the whole grille black.  I
did mask the VW emblem, of course.  :-)

> How does one restore the blackness to the door handles anyway?

Paint 'em.  Probably a semi-gloss is better than flat, as suggested.

> What is the deal with the rubber window bits? Any way to spruce them
> up short of replacing them?

I believe the Chris Turner solution is pull out the ugly chrome stuff.
:-)  Silicone spray might rejuvenate some of the mildly cracking  and
faded stuff.

> Headliner cleaning/replacing?

Cleaning worked well with Simple Green for me.  Of course, that was go get
all the AC oil out after I pulled the HP hose off.  :-P

-Karl

__________________________________
Karl & Kristina Bloss - bloss@enter.net
Trexlertown, PA - '87 Vanagon Weekender "Beverley"
http://www.enter.net/~bloss/vw