Mark,
Of course you are right - I mispoke.  Yes, remove the master cylinder to
make any adjustments with the yoke/pin etc.  You'll still have to be part
contortionist to get at the yoke but I believe it is the only feasible way
to get at the part unless you want to remove the dash.  Good Luck.

Jim
91 Syncro AW
----- Original Message -----
From: Mark A. Williamson <mwilliamson@ABCH2O.COM>
To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 3:44 AM
Subject: Re: Clutch Play

> Jim-
> I am bit turned around.  I read your post as suggesting that the piton
yoke
> for the MASTER cylinder is worn, but you referred to removing the SLAVE
> cylinder.  Why would I need to handle the slave cylinder to remove/adjust
> the yoke on the master cylinder?  I am guessing that you mean I need to
> remove the master cylinder, presumably to make it easier to access the
yoke.
> Will disconnecting the master cylinder reduce at all the need for the
skills
> of a contortionist to get at the yoke?  Can you clarify a bit for me
please?
>
> Thanks
>
> --
> Mark A. Williamson
> Denver, CO
> 88 Wolfsburg Weekender (135K)
>
>
> ----------
> >From: Jim & Melody <JiMelody@ZIANET.COM>
> >To: vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
> >Subject: Re: Clutch Play
> >Date: Tue, May 25, 1999, 4:16 Uhr
> >
>
> > You are correct that play can be adjusted.  Last fall I made the mistake
of
> > replacing both master and slave cylinders trying to get my clutch play
> > solved but to no avail.  My guess is that the holes in the master
cylinder
> > piston yoke is well worn as is the pin that goes through it.  It is not
a
> > fun postion to work in but can be done with a little patience.  I used a
> > small mirror to allow me to work by sight rather than complete feel.
You'll
> > need to remove the slave cylinder first which is easy and you don't have
to
> > disconnect the hydraulic line.   You can then reach up and take the pin
out
> > of the piston yoke.  You'll quickly know if that is the problem.   I
> > replaced the worn pin with a larger one and then adjusted the play with
the
> > threads on the piston and came out with a perfect adjustment.  You can
too.
> > Good luck.  And have fun trying to get everything back in while upside
down.
> > You'll have to improvise a wire or something to hold it in place while
you
> > work.  Give yourself an hour minimum.
> >
> > Jim
> > 91 Syncro AW
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Mark A. Williamson <mwilliamson@ABCH2O.COM>
> > To: <vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM>
> > Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 5:41 AM
> > Subject: Clutch Play
> >
> >
> >> Hello All.
> >>
> >> Lately it has occurred to me that I need to push the clutch pedal much
> >> closer to the floor to disengage it.  Conversely, it seems like now it
> >> barely leaves the floor before engaging.  I have bled the clutch (and
> > brake)
> >> line after replacing the hydraulic fluid.  There are no obvious leaks
in
> > the
> >> line anywhere (nor is there a need to top up the fluid reservoir).  I
> >> believe the "play" in the clutch can be adjusted, but it seems like the
> >> clutch master cylinder is just a little harder to get at than world
peace.
> >>
> >> Does anyone have a good/bad tale to tell me regarding this type of
> >> adjustment?  If either the master or slave cylinder requires
rebuilding,
> > is
> >> there a way to make that determination before the fact?
> >>
> >> TIA
> >> --
> >> Mark A. Williamson
> >> Denver, CO
> >> 88 Wolfsburg Weekender (135K)
> >