Brent and all you other Syncronauts,

On Wed, 1999-06-09 10:45:05 -0700, Brent Christensen wrote:

> ...
> Would any of you Syncronauts out there recommend removing the drive shaft
> and carrying it with me until reaching the back country?

I would  not generally recommend that  because under  extreme conditions
(like emergency maneuvers)  a   4WD Syncro handles  better  than  a  2WD
Syncro.  But if your viscous coupling is  already rather tight you could
remove  some of the strain   on the various  components  by removing the
drive shaft (been there, done that).

However,  I'm  not going to   buy  some other listees'  comments  that a
removed drive shaft might put additional stress on the  front diff or on
the viscous coupling.  True, the viscous  coupling is now  driven by the
front  axles and the  front diff, but  its other (free) end just happily
rotates in the open air  ... I really can't  see how this should do  any
harm.

>                                                           If anyone has done
> this, where did you stow the drive shaft while underway?

On the floor right in front of the rear  seat bench.  But then, I've got
a  passenger van, not  a Westy.  And yes,   as somebody else has already
pointed   out, it could be a   real mess if   the drive shaft were muddy
... :-)

>                                                           How long does it
> take to R & R?

Well, it  largely depends  on  how  fast   you're working :-)  ...   Ok,
seriously,  perhaps half an  hour  when you do  it  the first time, less
later.  It's only  four nuts  and bolts  (13mm, sometimes  only 12mm) on
either  side, but due  to the  geometry you  can  only use open wrenches
there.  You don't even need a jack.  I've done it on the plain ground.

Before you undo the bolts mark  the flages, so you  later know which end
goes where and  how the drive shaft  was aligned relative to the gearbox
and  front  diff flange.   When the  bolts  are removed  the drive shaft
doesn't simply fall down, you'll have to persuade it by gently driving a
screw driver between  the flanges ... well,  the correct way as per  the
German factory repair manual would   be to loosen   the three 17mm  nuts
which hold the front  diff  in place, so   the front diff could  move  a
little out of   the way (by all means   don't forget to  retighten these
nuts!).

> ...
>       I am interested in improving fuel economy, and saving wear & tear on
> the front diff. and VC.

If your viscous  coupling really is ok,  I wouldn't put  my money on any
fuel savings achieved that way.  Reason: rather than  by the drive shaft
the front  wheels  as well as the   front diff and  the viscous coupling
itself are now driven by  the road ...  but it's still your engine which
keeps them going ...

For much of  the same reason I wouldn't  expect measurable less wear and
tear on the front  diff and the  viscous coupling.  Provided the viscous
coupling is still  ok, and provided your  tires front and  rear have the
same diameter (within 1 or 2 mm).

However,  if you viscous coupling is  already shot  more or less, you'll
really gain  something  from removing the  drive  shaft on the road  and
installing it only off the road  (but before you get  stuck knee deep in
mud :-)

> Anyone ever had vibration problems spontaneously appear after removing and
> then reinstalling the drive shaft without modifying anything?

Not that I know of.

I hope that helps, even though your milage may vary ... :-)

Sincerely
 Rainer

'89 Caravelle GL Syncro 16"

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