On Mon, 21 Jun 1999, Rick Koller wrote:

> Shawn,
>         Here is the procedure I think you are talking about, I just did this to
> my '91 gl autobox and it worked like a charm.
>
> Rick Koller
> From: smitht@jupiter.sun.csd.unb.ca (Tim Smith)
> Unsolicited endorsement, from a sample size of one vanagon:  This does work,
> cleared my probs immediately, so far for 14months now. My only rec. is that
> when installing simply pull back the rubber boot exposing the 4 wires that
> go to the connector. Find #s 2 and 4 and simply nick them for a 1/2" or so
> to expose the bare copper.  Pry the wire out of the insulation by pushing a
> nail/knife under.  Then solder the capacitor right across the bared loops of
> copper.  No 15cm leads, no fighting with connector lugs etc. Use some
> electrical tape over the solder sites then tuck, everything neatly back
> inside the rubber boot.  The capacitor I used was a 25Volt 22microfarad
> tantalum type.  I read of mention of the stuttering problems not being
> completely solved with 10ufd size, quoted from a LIMBO article (via email)
> maybe?
> NOTE:  it says to use  #2 as positive, #4 as negative !!!  I used it this way.
> Any electrical geeks wanna tell if it makes a diff in this application?
> Prolly.
>
>        Radio Shack # RSU 11295805
>
Can somebody tell me where the capacitor is installed? Is the above
referring to the connections on the AFM or the ECU? I always assumed it
was the AFM but a recent post from Darrell Boehler mentioned something
about his digitool with optional capacitor fix being incorporated right
into the ECU.

TIA
Phil Menchions
89 Westy
Torbay,NF