>  From:    dfrandolph@TALKAM.NET (Fitz-Randolph, Douglas)
>
>  I've got a Dometic fridge...
>  I'd like to test it out on AC first before even delving into the
>  propane issue. So my question is - is it necessary to hook up the 12-volt
>  power leads in order for the fridge to operate?

No.

> Just plugging it in to the
>  wall has no effect - it seems like the thermostat needs DC to operate - is
>  this true?

No.  DC runs: (1) the coil cooling fan, always, and (2) the fridge itself
(that is,
the heating element) when on "12V" setting.  Nothing else.  The fridge can run
on propane or 110 without a 12V hookup.  Sounds like something's wrong.
Does the vertical sheetmetal tube in the back feel warm after you plug in the
fridge for an hour or so?  If so, the heating element is presumably working,
and I would think the trouble must be in the coolant pipes somehow.
If the tube doesn't get warm, you may want to poke around a bit with
a voltmeter to see what's not working.  The wiring diagram is conveniently
printed on top of the fridge.

>  For the fridge flue - well, that's a
>  tough one. I'm thinking about extending the intake and exhaust pipes enough
>  so they will reach the sliding window, then constructing a narrow
>  "window-insert" flue with the inlet and outlets stacked vertically.

My understanding is that the refrigerator is pretty sensitive about its
flue - particularly the relative length and position of the intake and
exhaust, and the nature of the terminating cap.  So, this may be
harder to get working than you might expect.  I don't really know,
though.

>  Doug Fitz-Randolph

Good luck with the conversion!

                                          -Steven Sittser