As much as I rag on Parts Place, their catalogue has a VERY smart tool for
the mondo-torqued hub nuts.

Imagine a flat sheet of hardened steel, about 5/8" thick, with overall
dimensions of roughly 7" x 3". At one end the flat surface is a hexagonal
hole to exactly fit the circumference of the hub nut. Toward the other end
of the flat, is a is a little square hole, where you can mate this tool to
your ratchet, breaker bar, etc. Got it?

So you slip it on the hub nut, and attach your ratchet in the ratchet
hole...then push down. Mean time, with your other hand, you give a downward
wallop on the top 5/8" edge of the tool with your 5 lb sledge. Bingo!
Doesn't answer how to torque it back on, but...

You could prolly find the same thing through Snap-On, and they'd give you a
girlie calendar.

G. Matthew Bulley
Director
Bulley-Hewlett & Associates
www.bulley-hewlett.com
Cary, NC USA
888.468.4880 tollfree

-----Original Message-----
From:   Stuart MacMillan [SMTP:stuart@COBALTGROUP.COM]
Sent:   Friday, October 01, 1999 11:19 AM
To:     vanagon@GERRY.VANAGON.COM
Subject:        Re: Torque for rear axle nuts?

Last time I did this job I went through all the gyrations with 10'
pipes, torches, sledge hammers, etc. until I bashed the lip of the
fender (this was on my '68 to get the brake drums off) and finally gave
up and rented a 3/4 drive electric impact driver.  Still took several
seconds of impacting to break loose.

The problem is that the inflated tire absorbs much of the force when you
try to break these nuts loose or tighten them by hand.

You really can't over torque these things when reinstalling, so just
impact away with the driver.  You just need to be sure to line up the
castellated nut with the hole for the cotter key.

A trip to the rental store will save you much aggravation for about $25,
and the 1 13/16 socket (which you also rent, they are at least $15 to
buy a good one) is close enough.

Your van will thank you!
--
Stuart MacMillan
Manager, Case Program
800-909-8244 ext 208

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