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Subject:Re: My Eurospec conversion problem
From:David Marshall
Date:Thu, 14 Oct 1999 17:26:57 -0700

I do simular conversions with CIS, Digifant and Motronic.  Here are my
experiences

1 - I find this a problem with the Digifant systems.  The computer wants to
run the engine at 800rpm which is too low, especially if it is cold or the
timing is slightly off.

2 - The is common with all 50 degree mounting angle conversions, there are
some manifolds out there that are better than others for clearance.

3 - I have never had this problem.  It is true that the 2.0L engines have
far more compression than the boxers (190PSI isn't uncommon) but the
factory starter never seems to have a problem with any of the conversions
that I have done.

4 - This buzzyness is a function of the exhaust system.  I find the more
things that are attached to the pipe (cat, muffler etc) the worse it gets.
Make sure there are a very GOOD bnracket between the engine and the exhaust
system that allows for ZERO movement.

At 04:16 PM 14/10/1999 -0700, SKP wrote:
>This is amazing.  I just signed on this list and you are all discussing the
>Eurospec conversion.
>I had the conversion done last weekend.  It's amazing the drivability
>difference.  I dare say it drives better than new.
>
>I have had four minor problems.
>
>1)The idle would sometimes drop and die when I stopped.
>        This has been apparently fixed today by the folks
>        who did the conversion by tweaking some adjustments and switches.
>
>2) The intake manifold was hitting the frame when I decelerated and/or
>turned right.
>        Apparently there are shims that can be placed at the motor mount
to skooch
>the
>        motor over a bit.  Unfortunately Eurospec no longer distributes the
>necessary shims
>        so they have to fabricate them from scratch.
>
>3) When hot, the motor cranks very slowly, like it has a dead battery. It's
>very predictable. Once hot and I try to
>        restart, it slowly goes WHOP WHOP WHOP WHOP....  on occasion it
will start
>after the second WHOP
>        So I replaced the battery, it had no effect.
>        If I jump the battery it starts every time, it still cranks a bit
slowly.
>Of course when it's cold
>        or cooled down  it cranks normally. interestingly enough, the
stock motor
>cranked just fine.
>        The guys who did the conversion claim the new motor is still very
tight and
>requires more current
>        which the second battery provides.
>
>4) There is a definite droning/buzzy noise between 3500 and 3900 RPM. I
>called Eurospec on this and they
>        claimed this motor does create this harmonic vibration at that RPM
range. I
>have the same motor
>        in my Jetta and I do have a similar noise at roughly the same RPM.
 The
>noise/vibration is hardly noticeable
>        in my Jetta, but in my Vanagon is very very noticeable and somewhat
>annoying. Eurospec accounts for that
>        because they say the Jetta has hydraulic motor mounts which do not
>transmit the vibration to the body like the
>        rubber mounts.
>
>Has anyone else had any similar experience with this droning resonance or
>slow cranking? Any suggestions? The guy at Eurospec claims he heard one
>person filled the two big black cross members with tranny oil which cut the
>vibration in half.
>
>Thanks,
>SKIP
>
>

--   David Marshall -                    - Quesnel, BC, Canada   --
--    78 VW Rabbit, 80 VW Caddy, 84 VW Westie, 85 VW Cabriolet   --
--       87 Audi 5000 Quattro, 88 2.0L VW Syncro Double Cab      --
-- David's Volkswagen Home Page        http://www.volkswagen.org --
-- Fast Forward Autobahn Sport Tuning  http://www.fastforward.ca --
-- david@volkswagen.org (pmail) or vanagon@volkswagen.org (list) --