There is a much easier method for fine-tuning the shifter position: pull up
the shifter boot, and loosen the two 10mm nuts that attach the shifter
assembly to the car, then slide the oval-shaped metal part to the left or
right as needed, then retighten. Moving the arm at the transmission even one
notch on it's splines may be too much, in my experience. This way you also
stay clean!

Karl M

> Quick shifter fix.  If getting into first ain't easy- ie you have to push
> down and 'half' go into the reverse slot... here is what i have done
> twice...
> take two 13mm wrenches (box or open), channel locks or the sort, and a big
> flat blade screwdriver and shimmy yourself under the bus from the sliding
> door side, about 1/3 way back between the front and rear tire.  Under
> there you should see a 5/8 or so inch bar that goes from above the gas
> tank to the side of the transaxle.  And you should also see an adjustable
> fitting there too.  What you need to do is loosen the collor clamp- need
> the two 13's for that- and turn one of the halves of the shift rod about
> one or two clicks- this is a job for the channel locks.  You may need the
> flat blade screwdrive to pry the the collor open a bit. WAIT, i forgot,
> take some of the liquid paper that you were sniffing and mark the two
> pieces that come together before you move them. Turn a few clicks one way,
> tighten the clamp, crawl out, dust off, hop in the drivers seat, and see
> if you can shift.  Then start the bus and see if the gears you THINK you
> are in are actually the gear you are in.  I will often get third in the
> first spot and first in the reverse spot.  If it is correct, hot damn!  Go
> back under and make sure all is tight.  If you are wrong, adjust a few
> clicks the other way and try it again.  This is why the liquid paper is a
> bonus!