Ron and  Listees,

Using the Ron Bloomquist technique, with some modifications, including the
information in the attached site, I removed the below-the-surface stud/broken
outer CV joint bolt from the hub of my Westy in about a half hour this morning.
The hub remained on the vehicle, and I approached it from the bottom, after
having jack-standed the Westy to a height convenient for me to install the half
shaft on which  I installed CV joints obtained from busdepot..com.  I found that
working on the stud while it was at about a 9 o'clock position was the most
convenient access for the tools and for my viewing..

Bookmark the site:.http://www.team.net/sol/tech/BrokenBolt.html

I wrapped my Dremel and electric drill in transparent plasitc bags to avoid
fouling them.   Using a  "long," sharp punch (an important item to making sure
the starter hole is centered), and a tungsten carbide cutter (Dremel 9910), I
very carefully indented the center of the stud with the punch, and, with a
delicate pressure on the stud with the cutter,  I cut a shallow "starter" hole
with the Dremel. With an electric, reversible drill, I progressed from small bit
sizes to larger sizes, cleaning  the debris throughout the process, until I was
comfortable with the mating of  the largest E-Z Out compatible with the hole in
the stud.  A slight turn of the E-Z Out with the appropriate 8-sided, extended
socket and the stud fragment emerged easily from the lubricated hole

The key, to me, is the "patience" referenced in the team.net site.   AND it was
another balmy day here, too.

Tom Hanlon
Palm Springs, CA
84 Westfalia

Ron Bloomquist wrote:

> Has anyone used this product (Tom)?  I've twisted off more easy-outs than I
> care to admit.  How well does this product work?
>
> J.Peter
> '85 Weekender
> Alfred,NY
> ------------
>
> Doesn't work for s**t.  I spent six months restoring a lighthouse with many
> rusted and broken screws and bolts to take out.  I had the "four pack" of
> this product - different sizes for different screws - and it was useless.
> The drill part would drill into the bolt/screw but the "take out" part would
> not start.
>
> The best approach seemed to be to carefully drill out the broken screw/bolt
> with a drill that would take out almost everything except the threads.  Then
> pick at the threads with a sharp pick and try to remove the thread, then use
> a tap to bit by bit finish the job and freshen the threads.  All in all, a
> fairly fiddley operation.  For larger bolts, 3/8's and up,  a drill bit that
> would remove most of the bolt and then one of those reverse twist
> "easy-out's" with the square head, firmly tapped in, then carefully twisted
> sometimes worked.  But it sounds like you have already been there, done
> that!
>
> Ron Bloomquist
> http://www.pointcabrillo.org/roadcow/lighthouse.htm