Yep, I replaced mine a year ago, but did not have to go to the 9 pound
and chisel story. The set screw came loose with a bit of lube and the
discs came off with a few gentle taps. Obviously, the rust problem is
not as big a problem here.

God luck

Jimmy Sanby
'89 Syncro 15"
Cape Town, SA

>>> EMZ <vw4x4@FYI.NET> 12/13 7:05 PM >>>
    I did this job on my Syncro about 1 year ago. The studs stay with
the hub. NO need to touch this area. Your biggest problem, will be
removing the small set screw that holds the rotors on and the rust
that has sealed the rotors in place. With the screw, use a big chisel.
This should take it out. No need to save it, it is really not needed.
Since you are replacing the rotor, take the BIGGest hammer and just
break them off. Note the rust. If I were you I would take measures
to prevent the new rotors from rusting.

            Eric                   86-VW4x4
            vw4x4@fyi.net          72-240z
            Pittsburgh, PA USA     1936-Chrysler

On Mon, 13 Dec 1999, Rick Koller wrote:

> Hi All,
>         I am about to embark on a syncro front rotor/pad replacement
project. The
> front rotors have 92k miles on them and they do look tired and since
the
> pads need replacement I will replace both components. I've done an
archive
> search on the subject but came up empty so I'm delving into the real
time
> List's sea of knowledge and experience. I recall from past postings
some of
> what faces me. From the corroded look of the rotors they will be a
chore to
> remove and I've got access to some heavy hammers. Any hints on easing
this
> disc battering would be appreciated. Also, I'm assuming the studs can
be
> removed for reuse in a new rotor. How does one remove the studs
without
> damaging them. Thanks in advance.
>
> Rick Koller
> '90 syncro westie
> '91 carat
> '91 gl (pumping exhaust gas into coolant):+(
>